Proper Maintenance and Storage of pH Meter Probes

May 15, 2012 by admin

‘There are few diagnostic tools more useful to an indoor gardener than an accurate pH meter.’  -Ben Holmes, Founder Centennial Seeds

For indoor cannabis gardeners the ability to monitor pH at the root zone or in hydroculture solutions is essential for the production of healthy crops. Most plants grow best within a specific range of pH conditions. For cannabis in hydroculture that range is from 5.8 – 6.2. There will be some plants that do better toward the low end of this range and others that will thrive at the high end.

The purchase of a pH meter is a highly personal and potentially costly matter. At the low-end there are small, highly portable pH ‘pens’. These tend to be fragile and when abused or poorly cared for the pens will fail and have to be discarded.

A more durable type, one designed for longevity and serviceability is a meter with a remote probe connected by a cable to the device. I prefer this type and have used one made by Milwaukee Instruments for over three years. I have not had to replace the probe or had the unit serviced. To be fair, I have replaced the 9-volt battery once.

Regardless of which meter you choose, the secret to extending the lifetime of your instrument and maintaining its accuracy is proper cleaning, storage and regular calibration. This may sound complicated, but it’s not really. In order to understand how to take care of your new meter, let’s take a look at a typical probe.

This one is a little dirty, but it still functions very well. What you are looking at and what is common to most pH meter probes is a thin walled glass bulb filled with a concentrated electrolyte solution. Inside the bulb is a conductive wire electrode.

Surrounding the bulb in this probe is a thin red porous border. This is called the union and it is conductive as well. A wire from the union back to the processing unit completes a circuit passing through the solution being measured. The meter compares the conductivity between the two phases and calculates a value along the pH scale.

To maintain the probe it must be cleaned at least once a month, after each use and before it is stored. Most manufacturers of meters make a cleaning solution. These are typically a hydrochloric acid solution with a pH of ~ 1.

Storing a probe correctly means first cleaning the probe and then submerging the bulb in a clean vessel of storage solution. Storage solutions are a high-molarity potassium chloride solution that matches or exceeds the concentration of the solution in the bulb.

Storing the bulb in this solution prevents the solution in the bulb from being diluted over time by osmosis. Cleaning the probe before storing it prevents the buildup of algae on the union and on the bulb’s surface. Algae buildup is a major cause for failure in electrode probes.

In order to make accurate measurements of pH a meter must be calibrated to two or three known points along the pH scale. For our purposes we calibrate to the known points of 4.01 and 7.01, which will allow our meter to accurately measure any point in between these values and beyond.

Individually packaged sachets of calibration standards make the process of calibrating your instrument simple and easy.

A pH meter probe that is properly maintained and stored should provide years of trouble-free service. Knowing your instrument is in top working order gives you the confidence to trust the reliability of its readings when making critical decisions in the garden.

I hope you find this information useful. I welcome your comments.

Dakini Kush @ 24 Days Flower

May 9, 2012 by admin

Photos of the Dakini Kush at 24 days flower (12/12). These have had seed set on them and as you can see there are hardly any white, tumescent pistils on the flowers. When an unfertilized pistil is exposed to pollen, it will wither and turn brown/amber.

Once the plants have absorbed the pollen load they begin to put out new pistils. My goal is to set seed on between 10 and 15 percent of the total flowers. This gives me a reasonable yield and places a manageable nutritional demand on the plants.

You can see that resin production has increased and that the total flowering mass has increased as well. Have a look:

 

A Hydroponic Fertilizer Formulation for Cannabis Using Peters 20-10-20

May 4, 2012 by admin

The following is a simple fertilization formula for growing cannabis in hydroculture using Peters Professional 20-10-20 “Peat-Lite Special” water soluble fertilizer. This formulation has been trialed successfully in my gardens in Peat-Lite rooting media.

This formula is intended to be run throughout the life cycle of the crop, from the seedling stage to finish. I hope you find this information useful.

Materials needed:

Peters Professional 20-10-20 “Peat-Lite Special” water soluble fertilizer – sold in 25 lbs. bag

Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts) – sold in 50 lbs. bag

To make a single tank concentrate to be injected into a water line at 1:100 mix the following:

190.73g Peters Professional 20-10-20 “Peat-Lite Special” water soluble fertilizer

92.00g Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts)

water to make 1 gallon

Inject this concentrate at 1:100 to deliver PPM 100-22-84-00-25 (N-P-K-Ca-Mg). This will make exactly 100 gallons of working solution.

To make a working solution to be top fed, dripped or used in flood tables mix the following:

1.90g/gallon Peters Professional 20-10-20 “Peat-Lite Special” water soluble fertilizer

0.92g/gallon Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts)

Mixed together this will deliver PPM 100-22-84-00-25 (N-P-K-Ca-Mg).

*Note: this formulation does not provide a calcium component. Calcium is provided as lime in the Peat-Lite media I use, which in this case is Fafard Urban Mix A. This mix is limed at a rate of 3lbs/yard.

Commercial Fertilizers Reconsidered

May 4, 2012 by admin

Growing cannabis indoors is a comparatively expensive proposition. Rent, electricity, heating, cooling, sodium-light bulbs, labor, all of these play a big role in determining the cost to produce a salable crop.

Most commercial growers will agree that fertilizers are a big component of their costs as well. While most professional growers still cling to the hobby-level plant nutrient product lines, a very few brave souls in Colorado’s cannabis industry have begun to work with high-quality commercial fertilizers in their production facilities.

The cost differential between using a cannabis-speciific nutrient and supplement line like Botanicare or Advanced Nutrients versus a general-use fertilizer like Peters is in the neighborhood of 44 to 1. Yeah, you read that right. Hobby store  ‘nutes’ cost about 44 times as  much as mainstream horticulture fertilizers.

And it gets worse. When we compare some of the more popular hobby-level supplements formulated to deliver magnesium to a horticultural standard like Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) the cost difference soars to more than 200 to 1.

Convincing a commercial grower to switch from a fertilizer product line that he or she has a working knowledge of is rather difficult. There is the fear of the unknown to contend with and most people fall into the camp of ‘if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it’. At 44 to 200 times the cost of commercial fertilizers, in an industry that is struggling to rein-in production expenses, I’d say this situation qualifies as ‘broke’.

But what about organics? When I began to grow in 2004 I was all about growing clean, chemical-free herb and I still am today. What’s changed is that I’ve learned to read the labels on these fertilizer products. The truth is that most of the hobby-store plant nutrient products that claim to be organic in composition contain the same inorganic fertilizer salts as their low-cost commercial counterparts. Why then is their such a big spread between the cost of these products? The simple answer is a lack of information and slick marketing.

A good example of this would be a popular ‘bud booster’ product that sells in the hobby stores for over $200 for a 1250ml bottle. The active ingredient is mono potassium phosphate which sells for $70 for a 50 lb. bag from the horticulture supply houses. Like I said ‘a lack of information and slick marketing’.

Due to  legalities surrounding the cannabis plant, reliable and truthful technical information on growing this crop is scarce. What is easy to overlook, however, is that the land-grant universities, or the ‘Ag’ schools, funded by the USDA, have solved most of the problems surrounding crop production. And, the same highly-researched fertilization materials and techniques used to raise tomato or pepper crops indoors can be applied successfully to the cannabis crop.

By embracing and adopting mainstream horticultural fertilizers and techniques, today’s nascent cannabis industry can do a much better job controlling costs while improving quality and increasing yields. All by simply changing where they shop.

Dakini Kush @ 15 Days Flower

May 2, 2012 by admin

Some photos of the Dakini Kush at just over two weeks under a 12/12 light cycle. They’ve begun to thicken with flowers and are lightly dusted with trichomes. Have a look:

My goal, as always, is a low-stress grow. These are off to a good start.

Fafard Urban Mix A 2.8 Cu. Ft. (79.3L)

April 20, 2012 by admin

Professional horticulturalists understand the importance of quality rooting media in their greenhouse operations. That’s why for over a century they’ve turned to Fafard mixes.

Fafard Urban Mix “A” is composed of Peat/Perlite and contains a natural wetting agent, mycorrhizal fungi, dolomite lime and a light nutrient charge.

Fafard Urban Mix “A” is a professional grade potting mix perfectly suited for long-season, woody, container grown plants.

2.8 Cu. Ft. (79.3L) bag $26.00 at CS Distributors in Lafayette.

A Hydroponic Fertilizer Formulation for Cannabis Using Peters 5-11-26

April 20, 2012 by admin

The following is a simple fertilization formula for growing cannabis in hydroculture using Peters Professional 5-11-26 “Hydroponic Special” water soluble fertilizer. This formulation has been run successfully in my gardens for several years in several types of rooting media. This formula is intended to be run throughout the life cycle of the crop, from the seedling stage to finish. I hope you find this information useful.

Materials needed:

Peters Professional 5-11-26 “Hydroponic Special” water soluble fertilizersold in 25 lbs. bag

Yara Liva CALCINIT Calcium Nitratesold in 50 lbs. bag

Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts)sold in 50 lbs. bag

To make concentrates to be injected into a water line at 1:100 mix the following:

‘A’ tank:

189.15g Peters Professional 5-11-26 “Hydroponic Special” water soluble fertilizer

95.84g Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts)

water to make 1 gallon

‘B’ tank:

184.27g Yara Liva CALCINIT Calcium Nitrate

water to make 1 gallon

Inject both A and B tank at 1:100 to deliver PPM 100-24-108-93-25 (N-P-K-Ca-Mg). This will make exactly 100 gallons of working solution.

To make a working solution to be top fed, dripped or used in flood tables mix the following:

1.89g/gallon Peters Professional 5-11-26

1.84g/gallon Yara Liva CALCINIT Calcium Nitrate

0.94g/gallon Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts)

Mixed together this will deliver PPM 100-24-108-93-25 (N-P-K-Ca-Mg)

Hapa Haze Photo Diary

April 18, 2012 by admin

The Hapa Haze seed was made with the Waipi’o Hapa and Haze. I’ve grown both of these lines enough to know the unique markers of each. The Hapa Haze expresses the best characteristics of both parents and is a textbook example of hybrid vigor.

Hapa Haze is a large plant and performs best in large rooms or outdoors where the sunshine can encourage maximum expression of its potential.

Pine and citrus dominate the flavor and fragrance. The smoke leaves a unique and delicious fragrance in the air that will bring you back to a time when equatorial Sativa types made up the bulk of the American herb supply.  Flavorful, stimulating and easy to grow.

Dakini Kush @ 80 Days

April 17, 2012 by admin

These were transplanted to 10 gallon Geopots and fresh media at ~ 50 days. The current fertilization is Peters 20-10-20 @ 100 PPM N and MgSO4 @ 25 PPM Mg. I shortened the photo-period to 12 hours on 04/15.

I’m going to say that these will finish around June 17.

Roughneck Photo Diary ~ From Start to Finish

April 17, 2012 by admin

Roughneck is a hybrid Seed I made from Jamaican Lambsbread and the Purple Rhino IBL. The result is a powerful Sativa-dominant hybrid that expresses beautiful purple hues and a delicious, somewhat savory bouquet.

With its heavy Sativa influence, the effects are very strong and markedly stimulating.  Roughneck is reccommended appropriate for: pain, focus, mood elevation, appetite suppression.

The plant is easy to grow and very productive. Examples of Roughneck have tested >22% THC.