Low-Stress Bending Basics

April 20, 2013 by admin

Some cannabis cultivars are super tall. This is particularly true for the Sativa types.

Attempting to grow these in anything less than wide-open space requires some reshaping of the plants.

The simplest way to do this is to bend the plant to one side and fasten its primary growth tip to the ground or container lip.

Here is an example of this.

By forcing the primary growth tip down you cause the secondary growth tips to go racing for dominance.

In time the primary growth tip will turn upward and begin growing again toward the lights. By the time it catches up it will have several new tops to share the canopy with.

What I like about this approach as opposed to methods where you simply cut the central leader to create multiple tops is that there is no loss of primary tissue.

Having said that, I like to remove the secondary branches along the inside aspect of the bend. This prevents the canopy from getting too crowded.

When you consider that you will have basically inverted the shape of the plant, you will then understand just how crowded it can now get up at the top.

This low-stress modification of the central leader results in a plant shaped more like a small fruit tree which is in many ways better than having a 15 foot pine shaped plant in your grow room.

Have a happy and safe 4/20 holiday. The whole country is watching, so look smart :)

 

Colorado Hemp Phytoremediation Trials ~ Burn Area Soil Pilot Test

April 14, 2013 by admin

In the aftermath of some very serious wild land fires here in Colorado, it was asked if hemp could be used to stabilize soil in burned out areas to reduce erosion caused by subsequent rain.

It was then asked if hemp would even grow in scorched earth. These are both interesting questions to me.

To begin the test the people at Hempcleans collected buckets of topsoil from one of Colorado’s hardest-hit burn areas.

Each bucket of soil was sown with 1 gram of hemp seed.

A 1″ hole was drilled near the bottom of the buckets to allow for drainage.

The test will take a couple of weeks before we see anything. But when we do we’ll be able to answer the scorched earth question with absolute certainty.

3 Head Dosatron Configuration

April 11, 2013 by admin

Here’s a 3-head Dosatron fertilizer injector setup I’m installing in a commercial production facility in Boulder.

With regards to handling liquid fertilizers and drenches these will cut the mixing and delivery labor in that facility down to a tiny fraction, freeing up their personnel to better care for their crops.

Coupled with driplines in a drain-to-waste system or straight to a hose and wand, you won’t believe how simple and trouble-free fertilizing can be.

I have pioneered the use of fertilizer injectors in the cannabis industry and I can tell you without hesitation that if you’re not running these in your facility, you will be. The efficiency gain is just too big to ignore.

Come see me. -Ben

FSL#2 An Exceptionally High CBD Plant Preserved in Seed Form

April 6, 2013 by admin


 

These came to me as a gift last week from a very generous friend.

The seeds are selfed (S1) from a female Kush type that belonged to the people at Full Spectrum Labs. I am told the plant tested at 17% CBD and 6% THC. If this proves to be true, this could be a very important accession for me. I’m excited by the idea of working with these.

These are a beautiful reminder of the influence that FSL had and continues to have over the cannabis industry in Colorado.

So, What Exactly is the Pinocchio Project?

April 4, 2013 by admin

About 5 years ago a representative of Bedrocan USA gave me a research article on the inheritance of chemotypical properties of cannabis. It was a big eye opener for me and it set me down the road to make the Otto#1 seed.

For those of you that don’t know the Otto#1 was my first effort at producing a high-CBD expression hybrid cannabis seed.

Otto#1 turned out to be a wonderfully successful project and I learned a great deal from it. The low-THC, high-CBD profile of the Otto#1 has made it extremely popular with those medical users that want the relieving effects of CBD without the sometimes overwhelming effects of THC. My goal now is to take what I have learned from the Otto Project and to try to improve on it.

The Pinocchio Project is my second attempt at a CBD-rich strain. The seed being grown in this trial is F1. It is derived completely from seed of known origin. The female parent stock is an extremely vigorous pure THC type. The male parent stock is a pure CBD type, highly inbred. The are both dioecious, meaning that there are separate male and female forms. They are also both rather tall.

That’s the nuts and bolts of the project so far. Now I wait for three or four months until the early indoor trialers finish a crop. What I’m most interested in in how they assay for those two specific cannabinoids. Until then. -Ben

 

5 Simple Things to Make Your First Indoor Cannabis Garden a Success

February 28, 2013 by admin

Gardening is, without a doubt, one of the simplest and greatest pleasures in my life. Most of the time, that is. I have seen my share of failures and made more than my share of mistakes.

Each time we start a new garden we begin with a picture in our mind of a successful outcome. For cannabis gardeners that picture is usually of a bountiful harvest of beautiful, fragrant and potent flowers that will supply ourselves and those we share with. As anyone who has taken up growing their own will tell you, it doesn’t always work out that way.

While marijuana is often referred to as a weed and it certainly can grow like one, it is not an easy crop to grow well. There are a number of common failures to growing the herb that can seriously compromise your results. Some of these failures are quite final and will simply kill your plants and force you to begin again.

My goal in writing this article is to draw your attention to the most common sources of failure and to help you steer clear of these potential problems. If you following these 5 Simple Rules in your first attempt, your chances of harvesting a quality crop are greatly improved.

Let’s get started. Here they are:

  1. Plan the timing of your garden.

Cannabis grown from seed indoors is, on average, a 120 day crop. A typical growth schedule might be 4 weeks from seed to first transplant, 4 weeks vegetative growth, then add 9 weeks to bloom and finish. That is 17 weeks, or just over 4 months.

There are people that will argue that they can finish a plant in less time and I have seen it done. But time is what it takes to make high quality flowers, so don’t rush yourself or your plants.

Also be aware of the months you’ve allocated to your garden and compare that to your personal calendar. Nothing is worse than getting 3 months into a grow and then remembering that you are supposed to travel for vacation just as your plants are beginning to bloom. Indoor gardens that are abandoned for weeks at a time frequently fail.

  1. Start with clean, well draining growing media.

The science of horticulture is constantly improving as are the materials used to grow crops indoors. In the past the commercial greenhouse and nursery industry used to grow their crops in clay pots and field soils.

The practice of using soils indoors has been replaced almost entirely by the use of sterile packaged growing media. The primary reason for this is to reduce the numbers of pests and pathogens that are introduced to the greenhouse.

Simply put, soil carries bugs and their larvae along with a whole raft of molds and spores. These pests, once introduced, are tough to fight and can be disastrous for your indoor garden. If the word ‘soil’ is on the label, don’t bring it indoors.

Packaged media comes in many forms. My personal preference is for Peat-Lite mixes which are comprised largely of peat moss amended with perlite, vermiculite or both.

A good usable peat-lite mix for cannabis would contain in the neighborhood of 60-65% peat. This makes for a medium weight mix that has good moisture holding capability, yet drains well.

  1. Use a complete fertilizer that is appropriate for your water type

Most packaged fertilizers carry on the label a guaranteed analysis of the elements inside. The most important of these are the N-P-K levels. N-P-K stands for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the three macro elements that plants need to grow.

In addition to these macro elements are a group of lower concentration elements referred to as micro elements. These include calcium and magnesium, and in smaller amounts iron, copper, boron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc.

A complete fertilizer will contain all of these elements in ratios that are appropriate for growing plants. There are formulations made for growing fruits and vegetables that closely match the requirements of marijuana. These are absolutely fine for your garden.

In many parts of Colorado, home gardeners are using city or municipal water sources. Municipal water is treated to lower the calcium and magnesium content and to remove trace elements like iron.

This treatment makes the water taste better and makes it more useful for things like bathing and laundering clothes. Unfortunately for gardeners this means that there is less of these essential elements to feed the plants.

If you are on municipal water that is low in calcium and magnesium you will need to supply these to your plants via your fertilizer choices.

  1. Provide adequate light

The single greatest limiting factor in indoor cannabis growing is light. The most common types of artificial light used indoors to grow this crop are fluorescent and high-pressure sodium / metal halide bulbs. Both work well and can be used at all stages of growth. Both have their merits and their drawbacks. On/off time is controlled with a simple timer.

The most commonly used type of fluorescent lighting used in indoor gardens are high-output T5 bulbs. These usually come in 4 ft lengths, although 2 ft bulbs are available. The fixtures are made up of multiple tubes. Common configurations are 4-tube and 8-tube panels that can be easily hung over the plants.

T5 fluorescent lighting is highly diffused which makes it easy on the eyes. The bulbs run very cool making them the go-to choice when managing high temperatures indoors is a concern. They produce a very high quality light and can be used to grow your plants from start to finish.

High-pressure sodium and metal halide bulbs have a much higher output from a much smaller fixture. HPS/halide lights burn hot and produce huge amounts of heat energy. This all adds up to make them a more productive lighting source for indoor gardeners. Having said that, the heat energy, while easy to manage in the winter months, can be an expensive factor to try and control in the summer months.

All things being equal, my preference is to run HPS during the cold months and fluorescent bulbs in the summer. Taller plants will benefit from the extra punch of the HPS/halide bulbs in that the light will reach and be more effective in the lower half of the plant. Fluorescent bulbs have less power and therefore will tend to under light the lower branches of taller plants.

  1. Control your environment

Controlling your environment means keeping your grow area clean and clear of pests. This means removing any dead or diseased leaves from the plants, from the media and from the surrounding floors.

You must also control your ambient temperatures. Marijuana plants do very well in the 60 – 75 F range. Run your garden colder and you run the risk of slow growth and mildew/mold outbreaks. Maintaining temps higher than 80 and you invite pests like mites into your garden.

Colorado’s humidity can swing wildly from season to season. Generally you want to keep your indoor garden air moist, but not too moist. A reasonable working range is between 40 and 60% relative humidity.

It would be impossible to cover every potential problem in a single article. By paying attention to these 5 factors you will have eliminated much of the risk of failure facing first time indoor marijuana gardeners.

I have spent a good deal of time learning how to grow this plant successfully indoors. I hope you find this information useful. If so, drop me a note and introduce yourself or stop by my shop in Lafayette. One can never have too many gardener friends.

Czech Ruderalis ~ Seedlings at 31 Days

February 10, 2013 by admin

Czech Ruderalis ~ Seedlings at 31 Days

These Ruderalis are really beautiful plants. Beautiful enough, I think, to be grown as ornamentals here in Colorado.

You can see by the super-wide leaflets and efficient canopy that they are well adapted to the low light and long days found at high-latitudes.

You’ll see that they are past the seedling stage and at this point they are busy making roots and foliage. The plants have really reacted well to the current fertilizer formulation.

These are being grown from start to finish under 16 hrs 23 mins of light each day, the length of the longest day in the Moravia region. My reasoning is if these will flower at 16 hours they should flower outdoors in Colorado. Our longest day is a mere 14 hrs 59 mins.

As a general rule seeds that originate from higher latitudes than our own will flower well in the Colorado environment.

The obverse is true as well, seeds originating from lower latitudes may still be in mid-flower when the Colorado growing season comes to an end.

This is especially true for the equatorial Sativa types and what makes the Nepalese mountain Sativa types so attractive to Colorado’s outdoor growers.

Regarding the Berger BM-1 peat-lite media I am trialing, it is very light coming out of the bag. This is due mainly, I believe, to the very low moisture content in the product as it is shipped. This is fine with me, as a lighter bag is easier to lift and carry.

I assume it is also less expensive to ship which allows Berger to sell a 3.0 cubic foot (22.5 gallon) bag for a good deal less than their competition sells 2.8 cubic foot (21 gallon) bags of interchangeable product.

What I have observed so far is that the initial wetting of the mix is a little messy which I’m guessing is a surface tension issue due to the low moisture content.

Although it lists a wetting agent on the label, it doesn’t seem quite as willing to accept the first watering as the Fafard mixes which have more moisture in the bag. Is this a deal breaker for me? Positively no.

The lower price point and larger volume more than offset the few extra seconds it takes to gently saturate this material. The plants seem to love it and once wetted it holds moisture very well. Managing pH in the BM-1 has been uncomplicated.

I do not recommend materials until I’ve successfully trialed the product myself. Based on what I’ve seen I would say that the BM-1 is completely interchangeable with the very best commercial peat-lite media products and it is very well suited to this crop.

 

Czech Ruderalis ~ Seedlings at 22 Days

February 2, 2013 by admin

Czech Ruderalis seedlings at 22 days.

The bump in feed last week, which included a nice pulse of phosphorus and potassium, gave these seedlings a nice shot in the arm. Growth has increased dramatically and the foliage has greened up nicely.

It is nice to get these out of the rooting cups and into some #5 nursery cans. The increase in can size gives me more time in between feedings.

I’m taking the opportunity to trial the Berger BM1 Growing Mix on this small crop. It is very close in composition to the Fafard mixes that I use.

The BM1 is an all purpose middle-weight mix composed of long-fiber Canadian peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. It includes a wetting agent, dolomitic and calcitic lime and an initial fertilizer charge.

Berger (sounds  like ‘Faberge’) is a very large manufacturer of grow media which serves the commercial nursery and greenhouse industries. Their products are world-class and are a lower-cost alternative to the Sunshine and Fafard mixes.

Have a nice weekend. As always, comments are welcome.

Czech Ruderalis ~ Seedlings at 15 Days

January 26, 2013 by admin

Czech Ruderalis seedlings at 15 days.

I noticed a twisting in the lowest leaves and a general lightness to the foliage. I increased the amount of N, P, K and Ca that I’m feeding the plants. I did this by adding calcium nitrate and mono potassium phosphate to my formulation.

What initially looked like heavy blue pigmentation then progressed to light colored foliage and slow growth. I eliminated soil pH as a factor by measuring it directly. Soil pH averaged 6.06, which is well within range.

An increase in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and calcium seems to have overcome the problem and growth is now much improved.

As things stand the traditional partnerships between the Land Grant Universities (Ag schools) and hemp or cannabis farmers is not legally possible.

I hope that this will change some day, but for now we need answers to very fundamental questions about these two very different crops. I work on the questions I find most interesting.

Your comments are most welcome.

UPDATE 2013 Seed Trial Gardeners Needed ~ Project Pinocchio

January 24, 2013 by admin

 

I have received literally hundreds of responses to this project and I want to say ‘thank you’ to each and every one of you. What started out as 10 gardeners has become just over 30 gardeners trialing this seed. At this point I have all the volunteers I need. Thanks again. -Ben

 

I am looking for 10 Colorado gardeners to trial a seed type that I produced last year.

You must be 21 or older, a citizen of Colorado and be willing to grow an unknown seed variety. You must be willing to make photographs at predetermined intervals and collect simple measurement data. You must also provide a sample of dried flowers post harvest.

Finally, you must be willing to meet with me. I will not provide seeds to anyone who is not known to me.

email info@centennialseeds.com or call me at (720) 961-0525.